The Elephant (Brasserie), Torquay

Having just been to the excellent Hanbury's in Babbacombe earlier in the week , who could have guessed that I was hungry for fish & chips? But there I was, back at The Elephant since our day trip to Dartmouth was rained off, planning on ordering just that.

I hadn't exactly planned to go to The Elephant twice in two days, but we were leaving the next day so what other chance whoud I have, and I had left my umbrella the night before so I needed to drop in... and that being the case surely there was time for the Set Menu at just £17.50 for three courses? After all it was still raining outside and it wouldn't be feeding time on Penguin Beach at nearby Living Coasts for another couple of hours....

Having collected my brolly, nicely labelled and waiting for me, we were seated in the window with a view of the brightening skies and once the food started to arrive my mood brightened considerably too.

I started with the soup of the day, a sharp citrus foam sat on a carrot base, while Kate decided to skip the starters - avoiding the tasty looking mussels because she once had a bad experience with Pernod, which which they were flavoured.

We both had the Guinness battered fish & chips for main. Excellent fish, crisp batter and a tower built of chunky, perfectly shaped, chips (very Marco Pierre White!)

Dessert was Sticky Toffee Pudding for me, served with a scoop of ice cream, and more of the Elephant's fine cheese selection for Kate. I got a running commentary on the status of the espresso machine (unwell) from our charming waitress while my coffee was prepared and when it came it was very good with a thick crema and just the right amount of bitter, biscuity flavour.

While I was enjoying the coffee chef Simon Hulstone appeared from the kitchen, evidently to check on deliveries being made at the front, and stopped by to chat about the effect of the weather on trade ("at least we don't have tables outside"), the whereabouts of Darron 'Bunny' Bunn from Orestone Manor (Chasers Restaurant in Stokeinteignhead) and the changes he'd made to the place since we dropped in the previous summer (splitting the place into brasserie and fine dining). Hulstone was charming and self-effacing, particularly on the subject of the excellent PR the place had been getting lately (he'd not seen the Conde Nast Traveller item I mentioned). I forgot to ask about his collection of menus. Doh!

Hulstone, who grew up locally and was Roux Scholar in 2003, is the only British chef to win gold at the World Chef Championships in France, and was a head chef at just 22. He seems to be enjoying being in Torquay. "When I first started here," he told us, "I asked why I got my fish deliveries at lunchtime, when at my old place they'd be there at 6.30 in the morning. Ah well, they told me - you get today's fish."

The Set Lunch is available Tuesday - Saturday (two courses for £15.50).