Located in what might very possibly be The Most Boring Neighbourhood in America(TM), Bertrand at Mister A's is perched on top of a 12 story financial building that affords impressive views of San Diego - and of the airplanes coming in to land at the nearby Lindbergh Field.
The readers of San Diego magazine picked the restaurant as Best Service in the Ultimate Dining Guide 2007 and I can see where they're coming from. Out waiter was excellent - as informed about French wine as he was Californian, full of pertinent recommendation and on hand, as if my magic, exactly when he was needed. The maitre'd was very welcoming and checked in on us at the end of the meal - and indeed the front of house staff held us in a very interesting conversation while our table - in the corner of two windows and with a great view, was prepared.
The food was a little less accomplished but very good - I think if I'd chosen a little better then perhaps I might have gotten a better appreciation for Chef Stephane Voitzwinkler’s obvious skills. As it was I chose what I thought would be a light starter of tempura; what arrived was a veritable mountain of fried vegetables served with two very pleasant dips. The tempura ('tempura of seasonal farmer market vegetables, served with a duo of dipping sauces') was ok, but not up to the standards I've enjoyed in Japan. A little too much clinging oil perhaps resulting in a covering that was, after several mouthfuls, a bit too cloying. Not a disaster - probably just a sign of a batter produced at the wrong temperature.
Kristof's starter on the other hand was excellent and I'm rather jealous of it: a lobster strudel ('fresh Maine lobster and assorted mushrooms in filo dough with cognac lobster sauce'.) Sounds daft; tasted great.
My main course of 'sauteed Ledo farm veal medallions, with morel mushroom sauce, truffled mash potatoes' was much more successful, though I could have lived without the fried onions after the plate of tempura. The dish also features a sort of meatloaf on the side - very interesting.
Desserts were 'dark, white, and milk chocolate mousse bars with praline crunch, passion fruit coulis and caramel sauce' for kristof and 'floating islands, raspberry sorbet center aka "oeufs a la neige" with pistachio English cream' for me. Both dishes were spectacular and left me with a very warm feeling towards Mr A's.
The meal was enjoyed with an excellent, fairly priced Sancerre and a perfect espresso (on the house - I assume that's par for the course?)
Highly recommended. Bring a hearty appetite - and binoculars!
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