Incognico 117 Shaftesbury Avenue, London, WC2H 8AD

I admit it: Incognico isn't my favourite London restaurant, but it is probably my most frequently visited in the ~£100+ (meal for 2) price range. Why? Location has a lot to do with it of course -- it's at the epicentre of where I do business in town and easy to find for guests. But there's also the simple fact that while the service can be wildly variable the food has never disappointed. It was raining when we arrived and the front of the restaurant showed not a single table free. Drat! Luckily the back room hadn't started to fill yet so we were first in there. Salt cod with aioli (£9.50) was a comforting treat after a frankly lousy journey into town (a "passenger incident" cancelled all trains on the Central line) and Roast sea bass (£15.50) was an elegant main. We also hurtled through two baskets of quality bread, a result of missing lunch. Dessert of chocolate mouse was unusually presented in a soup-bowl and a bit too much powdered sugar was sprinkled on for me.

Cocktails included absolutely excellent margherita's -- better than I was expecting really.

Overall still a very reliable and rewarding evening out.