One Pico, Molesworth Place, Dublin 2.

Eamonn O'Reilly has a list of staunch supporters in the Irish media and online and while not as famous as Thornton or Guilbaud he's quietly spoken of as one of Ireland's top chefs. He had experience early on with solid, but not particularly splashy, gigs from the Westbury hotel in Dublin through the Michelin-starred Meurice in Paris and hotels in Boston, Detroit and Casablanca. Then, in his mid-20s he came back to Dublin and soon picked up an Egon Ronay newcomer of the year. I'm of the opinion these are the awards that most count in the UK. At the age of 26, Eamonn opened One Pico which soon moved to the present address in Molesworth Place, Dublin 2. He's up to three restaurants in the city now.

I started with Bacon & Cabbage (aka Terrine of Ham Hock & Spring Cabbage, Portobello Mushrooms, Mustard & Tarragon Aïoli, € 12.50) which was a bit tricky to eat but jolly tasty. Jolly is the right word - you couldn't help but like it, with it's cute name and all, but it wasn't a dish of importance. It was just dinner.

A passion fruit jelly separated the courses. They tried to give this Vicky, who had ordered from the vegetarian menu, too and she promptly sent it back since it contained gelatin. A veggie alternative followed shortly.

Roasted Organic Salmon, (w/ Marinated Beetroot Risotto, Horseradish Foam, Parmesan Tuile & Herb Crème Fraîche, € 32.00) was more memorable - a pretty pile of food that combined sharp, separate flavours into a dish that was more of an experience than a 'whole'. We took some Green Beans & Crispy Shallots (€ 4.50) as a side dish, which were unnecessary.

Dessert was Poached Meringue, Toasted Nuts, Lemon Curd, Compote of Berries, Vanilla Cream (€ 11.50). This dish rocked. I'm a meringue fan anyway and this novel ensemble really worked for me.

Wine was something from New Zealand. I didn't pick it and can't be more accurate - sorry!
Service throughout was very competent, if a little French.

Overall I'd happily eat here again -- and no doubt will!