The Clarendon, Chandlers Cross, UK

Back at The Clarendon today for dinner. Let's get the wine, from a list growing in range and excitement, out of the way first. The 2007 Pauillac de Château Latour was delicious. This 'junior' Latour wine is made from fruit taken from the Château’s young vines that lie just outside the famed vineyard of L’Enclos mixed with declassified juice from Les Forts de Latour. The idea is to create a wine that reflects the Grand Vin but on a smaller scale. Don't ask what it cost. (You can pick it up for home enjoyment for about £65).

A starter of squid and mackerel burger, coriander cress and shallot dressing was a bargain at £7.50. This dish is a signature of Anthony Demetre of Arbutus and Wild Honey (two of my favourite restaurants) and the receipe has been published often, which makes it more than fair game I guess. It's a shame the wait staff didn't seem to know anything of it's origins though (unlike the triple cooked chips which they are aware are a 'tribute' to Heston Blumenthal). Would have been nice to see Demetre get some credit for it (I've always considered it classy when chefs credit chefs, like Alain Passard's L'Arpège egg at Manresa or 'Stuffed pigs trotter Pierre Koffmann' at Harvey's). I've had the original and... if anything I preferred the version at The Clarendon. Nice one.

Main course was Huntsham farm roast pork loin with crushed potato, broad beans and morels. This was a neat, hearty dish. The pork is tasty as heck, and lifted by the rich sauce.

The sides (lovely carrots, ok broccoli, super triple cooked chips) were pretty much unnecessary and there was quite a bit left at the end of the meal, but that's not to say we didn't enjoy them.

Dessert was fruit and nut chocolate soup with white chocolate ice cream. Overall nice, but basically a flattened chocolate soufflé. Not as outrageously unusual as it sounded.

Another very nice meal. It's a joy to have The Clarendon so near to hand.

The Clarendon, Redhall Lane, Chandlers Cross, Hertfordshire, WD3 4LU