I didn't hate Cocoon, the restaurant previously in this elegant space overlooking Regent St. But I certainly missed L'Odeon, which occupied the space in the late 90s. Hawksmoor is a much better fit as far as I'm concerned and they've restored the place to class with brassy fittings and green leather seats. Service was fast and attentive.
I started with shrimp on toast - and an IPA beer rather than wine. The shrimp were delicious, after a quick squeeze of lemon. Certainly a match for those I'd had at St. John Hotel earlier in the week. A square of blackened but not burnt toast and a herb and butter sauce completed the dish.
Rib eye was cooked to a perfect medium, pink but not bloody, warm. Even without a sauce the steak is highly seasoned -- in my opinion no sauce is needed. Every steak comes with the house ketchup.
Triple cooked chips are irresistible to me and Hawksmoor have the knack of them though they're a tad thinner than my ideal.
The big challenge at Hawksmoor is likely to what to order with some steaks sold by weight in 100g increments and others up to 600g with the bone in. If you're going to go for a starter and dessert then I'd say a main course is a 200-300g steak with one side. If you are going for just two courses add a side to the steak. If you are just having steak then 400g and two sides looks ample. Of course for some people like my friend The Belgian no steak is ever too big.
I did have dessert - peanut butter shortbread and caramel ice cream. Very nice.
Hawksmoor isn't cheap (unless on the excellent three course £25 express lunch) but as someone who knows just how tricky it is to get a perfect steak in London I'd say it's good value. And a fitting inhabitant of this storied space on Air Street.
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