Chicken pastille was lovely to look at served on slate and a sizeable amuse. My meal came with Albert Roux branded water (tasted like water) and champagne (dry, almost savory).
Decour is lovely art nouveau with huge brass chandeliers dominating the room and closing up the huge space a little. Everything is arranged in curves and most tables are visible to each other but there are a handful of slightly more secluded booths if your in need of a romantic spot/are making shady deals. I'm guessing there are about 100 covers.
Boudin blanc also looked lovely and turned out to be a perfect starter - creamy but not heavy and accompanied with both a purée and thin slices of cauliflower.
Service was very attentive and though I'm not a huge fan of being asked if I'm enjoying a dish while my mouth is full I'd rather have the attention than not. Everyone smiled when they spoke to you which helped leaven the formality of the classic Landau room.
I went for pork collar, glad that I'd passed up the same cut at Heston's Hinds Head at the weekend. This dark rich meat is paired with creamy mash, a little cabbage and, smartly, a light gravy that doesn't fight with the collar. Very impressive.
For dessert I had to go for the beautiful cheese trolley. I had four cheeses, including the legendary stinking bishop (not all that stinky), from a selection of about 15, plus celery, bread, quince and chutney. A friend recently told me the story of mistaking a rather nice butter for cheese in Italy and one of the cow milk cheeses was so rich and buttery I wondered briefly if I was doing the same.
Overall food, value and service were excellent and I'm genuinely surprised the place doesn't have a Michelin star.
Lunch came in at £45 including service, water and coffee. This is a regular price but I got a glass of champagne included by booking with toptable. For £45 ex service you can have a half bottle of wine.
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