Atelier Crenn, San Francisco

I was at Manresa at the weekend (coincidentally so was Atelier Crenn's sous chef) and so I was in two minds about another abstract, complex and possible lengthy dining experience.

I hadn't even eaten anything at Atelier Crenn before I changed my mind. From the first hello onwards Atelier Crenn made me bloody happy. The love of food is etched in every aspect from the semi open kitchen from which one can hear the strident Chef leading her brigade to the lengthy and well judged wine list to the passionate renditions of what each menu (a $95 or $160 tasting menu are the only options) will bring. 

I was sipping a French 78 cocktail (sparkling wine, gin, lemon) when a long fingered hand was thrust in front of me and a sharply French accented voice announced "Hi, I'm Dominique." Chef Crenn turned out to be extremely engaging and, as it was early in the evening and not yet too busy, quite discursive. She likes England, has a friend in Aldershot, it's not true that the French and English hate each other, did I like Brittany, by the way, where else had I eaten? She was full of praise for Manresa's David Kinch, and we agreed that La Folie's Roland Passot was an extremely nice man (as well as an amazing chef). We talked for a while about Mina moving into the old Aqua location. I mentioned wanting to go to Frances and not being able to get a table. "Oh, I can get you in! I live right by there. And if you like that you must go to Commonwealth too!" I was assuming that would be the last the room saw of Mme. Crenn.  Far from it. At least twice more she circled the room while I was there checking everyone was happy. She even brought a couple of dishes out herself. 

One cannot avoid hearing from the kitchen that Crenn is precise and demanding. The food she serves is the same. Often slight, the dishes require you to engage intellectually; to wonder how, but never why (the why is the remarkable result in flavours). The presentation is artistic, yes, but so is the expression. This is cooking as it can be, but so rarely is; the soul speaking. 

While many chefs are trending ever more savoury and 'umami' it was a delight to discover that Atelier Crenn is not afraid of sweetness. Almost every course had a light, sweet side, even when using earthy ingredients like mushrooms.

Alright, that's very well you say: but what did you actually eat? Honestly, I'm not sure how much I should give away. The menu reveals little in the course names (Prologue, “Spring’s arrival”, “Walk in the forest”, Untitled, “The sea”, “Hen of the woods”, La fort noire, Epilogue) and a lot of the fun is in discovery and surprise. A surprise increased by the fact that the courses were served out of order from how they were printed on the menu. 

The food is often molecular in technique but with an equal focus on exceptional ingredients - an opening dish comprises 'textures of rice' - a sort of rice cracker, beaded with fish roe. It's impossible to describe in a way that does justice to how special it is. Liquid nitrogen comes into play for another early course but the focus is on the literally explosive flavour. Only afterwards, if you show interest, is the technique lovingly revealed. 

Rocks are used repeatedly to deliver: single mussels buried in emulsion; a palate cleanser that would put many desserts to shame; and eventually a dessert that looks like it's just been forked straight out of the garden. Presentation is brilliant throughout the night. 

The high point for me is what is described as the Atelier's signature dish: Walk in the forest. Completely vegetarian and wickedly original it combines hazelnut meringue and mushrooms of many kinds, both foraged and molecularly reinvented (for example as mushroom paper). The recipe is online courtesy of Bay Area Bites. 

Eleven courses for $95 is a ludicrous price for food this good (my bill says five courses so perhaps the number varies upwards with that as the base but I counted from first amuse to the mignardises 'Epilogue'). Service was very good indeed with just the right degree of formality but a constantly friendly and engaging touch. I never lacked for attention.

Atelier Crenn has one Michelin star already and it's very well deserved but just the latest in a bouquet of awards Chef Crenn has picked up (including Iron Chef winner). If you are in San Francisco and have no dinner plans: what are you waiting for? It's an adventure you need to go on, NOW.