Frances, San Francisco

I badly misjudged how long it would take to get to Frances and did my first walk past 30 minutes before it opened. The queue was only three deep at that point. I was lucky to have a reservation, albeit for the ungodly hour of 5pm, so I got a table for one, rather than a seat at the 'bar' with a lovely view of the wall. 

Beet salad came with blood orange, ras el hanout spices, and honey vinaigrette. It was nice but nothing that someone with access to a Whole Foods store couldn't knock up themselves. Bread was a very nice rustic sourdough with (yes!) salted butter. You have to ask for bread for some reason but that fact is noted on the menu. 

By the time I finished this bouche the place's 50 covers were about half full and the atmosphere was buzzy. The tables are super close to each other so I was glad that I'd showered after trekking across SF all day.

Dungeoness crab risotto was delivered with a plaintive 'I wish I were you right now.' And with that dish I got it. Got just why this place is so hot right now. Why Dominique Crenn noted she was 'lucky' to live near by (while kindly offering to put in a good word to get me a booking). It was exceptionally delicious. Creamy and multi-flavoured, pretty, happiness inducing. Crispy salsify vies with lemony creme. Rice is so perfect you'll chase every grain. 

A bavette steak is served with creme fraiche, buttered potato and spring onion. Strong ingredients, well cooked and well presented. By this point the place is packed, people are waiting in the doorway (and boy is it drafty) and the noise level is, as Opentable puts it, 'energetic'. 

A peak through the tiny 'pass' shows the kitchen to be just as energetic, and it looks hot. Controlled chaos. 

Dessert is chocolate clafoutis with caramelised banana and ice cream. It's lighter than it sounds and utterly more-ish. 

Total cheque is $79 with $18 of booze, before tip. For four courses of that quality and a couple of glasses to go with them, it's not a bad deal. I'll try to go back.