Brasserie Chavot, London

Brasserie Chavot looks and sounds as though you've been transported magically from the posh shops of Conduit St (or the very London lobby of the Westbury) through a magic portal to gay Paris.

The music (Peppermoon!) the uniformed (and mostly French) wait staff and most notably the decor all speak of Eric Chavot's home land.

Marco Pierre White once called Chavot “the best” and while it's too bold a statement for me he's surely in the top class. The restaurant was amongst this year's Michelin star winners.

Heirloom tomato salad was heartier than it sounds and mixes tart, sweet and savoury with even a little cheese in there.

Daube de boeuf rests in a rich gravy with artichoke and carrot. I substituted green beans in a light butter sauce for the mash it usually comes with without regret. The beef is extremely tender and the mix of juicy insides with a crispy top layer is ideal for me.

I was forewarned by my waiter that chocolate pot was in fact more pistachio than chocolate. No loss. Nut+ice cream+chocolate=Delicious.

With a glass of a more than decent Bordeaux dinner came to £52 inc service.

Overall very nice, and no Eurostar journey required.