Balzac is located in a fabulous space in the La Stampa hotel that was previously home to Novelli's Dublin venture. Now occupied by chef Paul Flynn, also of The Tannery in Waterford, and ex-Chez Nico, the restaurant focuses on classic French dishes built from local produce (all the beef is Irish, and a sign proclaims it's traceability).
I began with Crab crème bruelee, pickled cucumber €12.50 which was interesting but, even in a small pot, too rich to be a starter IMHO. Vicky had Caramelized onion & beetroot soup €6.50 which she declared the "best soup ever." Following that her main was always going to have trouble living up to expectations and indeed she ended up abandoning her Herb gnocci with field mushrooms & Beaujolais dressing (€18.50) partway. I tried it and thought it tasty but again, too cloyingly heavy for me. My main course, Pot au feu of pork €22.50 was perfectly rendered and completely consumed. I'd eat it again right now if I could. Initially I was served the wrong desert so I got to each a spoonful of fluffy savarin before I noticed. I should have stuck to the wrong dish as Lemon berry meringue fool (€8.50) was no more interesting than any home cook could knock up. Judging by the three deserts I tried (Vicky's was pear poached in muscat de beaumes de venise) Flynn isn't much interested in puddings and would be advised to get in a pastry chef sharpish if he wants to prosper on my business ; )
Service was sub voce (Vicky asked me if she'd gone deaf) but attentive enough.
Overall, with two disappointing courses each you'd expect that I wouldn't be back to Balzac but the combination of the stunning room, well-priced wine list, and the excellent soup and pork mean that it'll probably get a second chance.
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